Yesterday I was feeling nostalgic about the pre-Porto part of the Camino but today there were several ferocious sounding dogs on chains, it was stifling hot, I got lost a couple of times, the last few kilometers felt like they would last forever – and I felt right at home!
The way today was both remote and beautiful – in contrast to the few days before Porto when we passed through several industrial estates and there was a prolification of electric power lines. And although we were not right on the coast, the ocean was often visible in the distance.
I walked with Martin and Cristina. Unfortunately, a couple of times we were so deep in philosophy that we missed the arrows, added a few kilometers to our day and totally lost the other four. Anyway, I was very happy for the company of Martin and Cristina (see photos). The last couple of days before Porto I was so exhausted I was having some twinges of doubt as to whether I could continue – but after being so well cared for in Porto and with such cheery companions on the Camino, my optimism returned.
We reached the albergue at 3pm – and, though it was earlier than yesterday, we were nevertheless exhausted. So it was a bit of a shock to be told once again that the albergue was full – and this time there was not a single bed. The kindly man running the albergue (who was 83 years old and ran the albergue 7 days a week as a volunteer, to be of service) told us to wait. Meanwhile he phoned the owner of an albergue nine kilometers further along the Camino. Eventually, the owner answered the phone and, before we knew it, arrived in his car and whisked us off to his albergue! This turned out to be a stroke of good fortune – the albergue was a lovingly restored 17th century house (see photos below) and the owner was wonderfully kind. To complete our good fortune, the albergue owner went back to pick up four other stranded pilgrims – and they turned out to be the friends we had been separated from! After an emotional reunion, we sat around the table to share wine and pasta together.
The next morning I decided I needed another day to catch my breath. Three of the group went on, but Julio, Martina and Cristina also decided to stay. It was a perfect day! We lazed in the sun, drank coffee and cooked pasta together. The albergue was a special place and we basked in its peaceful atmosphere. I felt surrounded by an extra layer of happiness.
Fatijah's Camino Portugués 2016 
